June Sampler Wardrobe: 30 Items for 30 Days

In my last post, you heard about my self-proscribed overstuffed wardrobe antidote: The Sampler Wardrobe.

Today I'm going to share the contents of my first (public) sampler. These are all the clothes I will be wearing for the entire month of June -- barring exercise and sleepwear, of course.

As I'm not fancy with Photoshop and too lazy to sort through doppelgänger pieces on Polyvore, I've simply provided a list of my thirty selections for now, sorted into their respective activity clusters. Over the course of the month, you'll see an assortment of outfit combinations that will better illustrate the individual pieces and also show you what a sampler wardrobe looks like in action!

JUNE 2017  Sampler Wardrobe Selections

• Work (Host) - 1
• black rose-print tank blouse
• white black-tie blouse
• black high-waist trousers
• black velour pencil skirt 
• black Mary-Jane pumps
  
• Work (Host) - 2
• off-white tee blouse
• periwinkle tunic tank blouse
• black military-style jacket 
• crimson stovepipe trousers
• black oxford flats
• Work (Nanny) - 1
• fuschia crochet-seam tank
• pink dotted tank
• indigo bootcut jeans
• blush wrap dress
• olive green sandals
• Work (Nanny) - 2
• white & black striped banana tee
• gray marled moto-style cardigan 
• denim jacket
• black skinny jeans
• gray low-top sneakers
• Weekend - 1
• white men's dress shirt
• white crop tee
• black leather jacket
• black maxi tank dress
• black heeled ankle boots 
• Weekend - 2
• lavender crewneck tee
• peach babydoll dress
• wine a-line skirt
• lightwash boyfriend jeans
• brown ankle boots

Remember, when creating clusters for your own sampler wardrobe, make sure you have enough options per activity to last a full laundry cycle. While each cluster can operate separately, ideally they will also blend with (a) their counterpart cluster and (b) across other activities! For instance, while I can't go to work in my crop tee (Weekend 1), I love how it pairs with my black high-waisted trousers (Work Host 1). So I might combine the two for an after-work date night or something.

The rules are yours for the making. The only important thing is that each activity's items work together and you're excited to wear every piece you've selected!

Happy Sampling!

Introducing The Sampler Wardrobe: A Cure for the Maximalist

Okay, so you've made the commitment to transition to a more sustainable, modestly-sized wardrobe. Good for you! Perhaps you've identified the clothes that spark joy and arranged them in artful folds on your closet shelves. Maybe you've started curating a seasonal capsule. Chances are, if you followed the myriad of instruction on how to declutter your wardrobe, you now have a pile of clothes that you've decided just aren't your style. You'll do your best to find them a new home through donation or sale, and the rest you'll take to textile recycling, because that's the sustainable fashionista you are. The special unicorns among us will float into a land of dreamy, curated bliss, perfectly pleased with their selected pieces and never again at a loss for what to wear.

This is what is promised to us by so many well-meaning bloggers. This is what I too imagined would happen when I started the capsuling process three years ago.

The hiccup in the capsule transition is that the majority of us -- including those who fall in the relatively modest ownership average of 103 wardrobe items -- will end up with the following:

• a reasonable wardrobe of clothing we love
• a likewise reasonable donation pile
• an enormous pile of not-quite-perfect items which are nevertheless still interesting & possibly useful.

For years I found myself obsessing over that final category. Was I supposed to simply bid farewell to the formal dress I hadn't worn in three years -- the one which still fit and, more importantly, still made me happy to twirl around in? Should I stuff my hiking boots in the Goodwill bag and greet my next uphill journey with a pair of hip sneakers? What about the oversized Christmas sweater I saw only once a year, but which somehow found its way onto me seven mornings in a row? Yes, I had a more reasonable sweater in my capsule, but I don't always want to be reasonable, do I? Some days simply call for a bit of extra spice.

Despite my devotion to the capsule system, it was heartbreaking to have to continually subvert my quirky thrift store finds (arguably the pieces that meant more to me) to the more practical items that happened to all fit a singular color palette. From a sustainability standpoint, I was also struggling with the idea of excusing myself from responsibility for my belongings. I'd purchased these clothes for a reason, hadn't I? In most cases, I realized those leftovers sitting in storage weren't unusable or unfashionable -- I was just bored with them. And I wasn't content to let that boredom invite more mindless shopping.

There had to be a better solution, I thought. Something that would force me to get creative with what I already owned yet still allow me to feel stylish and comfortable in my day to day life.

About a month ago, it came to me. Rather than continuing to build the work and weekend capsules which left me bored and overwhelmed by season's end, why not select a smaller sample of pieces from my closet inventory and wear them more frequently for just one month's time?

Part of the joy of styling for me comes from innovation and mixing things up. But the paradox of my creativity has always been that the more options there are (i.e. the more decisions I have to make), the harder it is for my brain to pull something together. The idea of working with a smaller pool of clothing was comforting to me, and the monthly opportunity to swap out what was no longer inspiring reintroduced a creative freedom to my personal styling process. (I also won't pretend I wasn't attracted to the totally ridiculous luxury fashion concept of never repeating an outfit.)

Of course, the method didn't come without drawbacks. When working with less options, it becomes even more important to make sure your pieces coordinate, however wacky they may be. Since I was working within the confines of outfitting myself for three different life modes (nanny work, restaurant work, and weekend activities), I had to ensure that my selections could continually see me through an average week.

Enter The Cluster Method. A few weeks earlier, I'd stumbled across a blog I hadn't heard of before, The Vivienne Files. One of Vivienne's closet-decluttering posts advised using "clusters" to identify one's most versatile pieces. Clusters typically consist of four items: three tops, all of which can be paired with a single bottom piece to create a complete outfit. The idea is, so long as those foundation clusters coordinate, you will never be without something to wear. I applied this method to each of my three wardrobe categories to calculate how many pieces I would need. The result was a wardrobe that I was truly excited to experiment with; one that suited my minimal closet dreams without limiting my creative ability.

If you're struggling to wear everything you own right now, or if you're lacking that creative spark, you may find that this process works for you too! Here's how to get started:

1. First, take a moment to determine how many clusters you will need. You may want to approach this by considering your laundry habits. Those of us who do bulk laundry loads twice a month will need more items than those who wash their clothes every week. If you don't mind repeating outfits, you may need even fewer pieces.
   
   Here's how I calculated my cluster total. I ended up with seven total clusters, for a total of 28 pieces. Later, I broke up the third weekend cluster to distribute coats and shoes (for practicality's sake) and some dresses (for variety) across all categories.
   
• NANNY: x8 outfits / month
• = 2 clusters
• HOST: x8 outfits / month 
• = 2 clusters 
• WEEKEND: x12 outfits / month
• = 3 clusters
2. Remove all your clothing from hiding -- be sure to check closets, hooks, hampers, racks, drawers, and storage containers. It's important to see everything.
3. Sort out any items which do not align with the current season. (In summer, for instance, you're unlikely to need winter coats, gloves, or boots.) Find a place to store these items and label them clearly for later retrieval.
4. From the remaining items, decide what you're intuitively drawn to. Perhaps you're having a love affair with the color teal right now, or maybe you have a bohemian summer vibe that is perfectly encapsulated by hippie dresses. Group each of these pieces an appropriate cluster. (For example, your favorite pair of jeans might cluster well with that printed blouse you can't stop wearing. A flashier statement skirt might stand alone for the time being.)
5. Now, locate the pieces which will complement these intuition items. (In the instance above, you would select an additional two shirts to pair with your favorite jeans.) If you have a lot of stuff, this will take some time. Treat it like a party: put on some music, and take note of which outfits make you feel excited to go somewhere.
6. Add as many coats, jackets, and shoes as your lifestyle calls for. These items should pair with most of the other pieces, so you may want to stick to neutrals here. You may also wish to add singlet items, such as dresses, during this time.
7. Store any unused clothing out of sight -- it's off limits while you focus on making the most of your monthly sampler!

In the upcoming posts, you will see the pieces I've selected for my own sampler wardrobe. Then I will illustrate how they combine to create enough unique outfits for one month of wear. See you on Monday!

 

The First Steps Toward A More Sustainable Wardrobe

As you begin your journey toward a more sustainable wardrobe, you may start to wonder what the completed product ought to look like. How many clothes will you own? And what kind of garments? Which brands should be present and which ones aren't allowed? How will you know when you're done?

In their discussions on The Minimalists Podcast, hosts Joshua Fields Millburn and Ryan Nicodemus frequently describe their sustainable lifestyle as an ongoing process rather than a destination. I believe we can all benefit from adopting this outlook in most regards. However it is slightly easier to apply standards to a closet than an overall lifestyle.

Ideally a wardrobe that is curated and maintained around the goal of sustainability will be:

1. perfectly sized to the individual's daily lifestyle (not so many clothes that items go unworn, but not so few that laundry becomes a tetris nighmare)
2. reflective of the individual's ethical standards (fair trade, vegan, secondhand, etc.) and
3. comprised of the most stylish and high-quality materials available to the individual, to ensure maximum lifespan and wearability of the garments

Of course once these standards have been met, it is up to the owner to abide by them, ensuring they are not shopping unnecessarily and are replacing garments as-needed in accordance with their ethical values.

So. With these points in mind, are you there yet? Are you "done"?

I'll go first: I'm not. Not even close. I may be the brains behind this blog. I may be the one encouraging friends to swap-not-shop and rethink fast fashion impulses, but that does not make me the Patron Saint of Sustainability. If you could open the suitcases beneath my bed, if you knew how long the bag marked "Goodwill" has lingered behind my closet door, if you felt the wince of desire that crossed my face on tantalizing journeys past the shop windows of 5th Avenue, you would know: I'm still working on it.

But I've come far from where I was before. And for those of you who are still in a position of owning too much clothing, struggling to avoid an impulse purchase, or simply lacking confidence in your personal style, listen up, because I'm about to drop on you the most sustainably fashionable action to ever grace your ears. And it's something you can do RIGHT. NOW.

Ready? Here it is:

WEAR. YOUR. CLOTHES.

Wear the clothes you already own. Chances are, they're not bad ones. (You bought them for some reason, right?) Pending on where and when they were purchased, it's likely they're not as worn out as you think they are. My very favorite sweatshirt from eighth grade (which I probably wore every single day of my fourteenth year around the earth) could still serve its intended functions were I to put it on right now: it would keep me covered and it would keep me warm.

Me, in all my totally unstylish teenage dirtbaggery.

The caveat, however, lies in an additional function of clothing. A privileged function. A human-imposed function. The fact is, most of us don't want to wear a sweatshirt selected by our 14-year-old selves. Hurley International and I had our heyday alongside the other posers of junior high, but I've learned my place since then. I'm not a skateboarder, and I doubt I ever will be. This is no longer the type of Rachel I want to pretend to be; this is no longer my style.

When you're struggling with a style change, it can be difficult to be responsible and wear your clothes. What's the first thing we all want to do when we get a new job or pant size?* BUY NEW THINGS! ALL THE NEW THINGS! A CLOSET FULL OF NEW PERSONALITY! If such habits are already in place, it will be difficult to avoid that impulse to shop and face your wardrobe as-is. But I encourage you to try. Even a few weeks of self-styling can provide a tremendous boost to your creativity. Besides, until you give yourself the time to explore, you're liable to continue making the same shopping mistakes -- and then you may never find your style at all.

Once you own up and face the actual contents of your closet, you may discover what I discovered: That you have A LOT of clothes! In order to restyle these garments, you're going to have to familiarize yourself with them. Choose an inventory process that suits your brain. For me, that was diving headfirst into Excel heaven and color coding a week of my life away. For you it might just be scooping everything out of the depths and flinging stuff into smaller piles on your bed. Take some time to reintroduce yourself to these garments. Ask them how life is at the back of the dresser. Then: play. Put on some music and your favorite underwear. Grab two pieces that make zero sense together and figure out a way to make them sing. Snap photos of your favorite creations, and soon your phone will be filled with nonsense like this:

If you're really, truly struggling with wearing what you have (maybe you're having a baby, I don't know), strive to find your garments a new home. Host a clothes swap, visit a consignment store, or donate to a local charity. Avoid undercutting the purpose of minimalism by being wasteful with what you relinquish. There is almost always an alternative option to the landfill.

The most important piece of advice I can offer while you're whittling down your wardrobe and discovering your style is this: Avoid shopping. Better yet, set a sustainable challenge for yourself, like purchasing only from thrift stores or pretending H&M doesn't exist for a year. It might mean spending less time on certain websites, where you're prone to impulse buying. It could entail unsubscribing from retailers' email lists. I really can't stress the importance of letting yourself sit with your wardrobe like this, without incoming purchase distraction to stop you from discovery. Give yourself space to learn how to pair things, what makes you feel confident, and where your shopping mistake minefields lie.

If you follow these steps, the road to sustainability will turn from Mt Everest into a pleasant medium-grade hillside. To summarize:

1. Wear the clothes you own.

2. Teach yourself how to style them together.

3. Don't shop for new ones.

4. When you must part with something, show it a sustainable farewell.

    

Later this week I'll be sharing a more detailed approach to wardrobe creation for those of us still grappling with piles of still-wearable clothing. Stay tuned!


*Besides celebrate the event with a gargantuan cookie.

A Year Without New Clothes

This post has been a long time coming, but I wanted to follow up on my year-long experiment of only purchasing used clothing.

When I moved to New York City in autumn of 2016, I made a commitment to live with less. I'd anticipated a smaller apartment, minimum closet space, and less income to spend on "wants." (Ironically, I actually have more of all three of those things. Funny how life works.) Having no idea what my new job might demand attire-wise, and still nursing a pretty strong attraction to all things thrift store, I decided to let myself continue to shop for clothes; but I made two rules for myself:

 

RULES:

1) If I wanted more / different clothing, I had to acquire it secondhand (via thrift / consignment shop, clothes swap, or passed on from a friend.)

2) Exceptional necessities like work uniforms and undergarments could be purchased new, but only from a brand with ethical values.

THE PROCESS 

Between October 2015 and November 2016, I became well-acquainted with New York's thrift shops. I researched ethical brands and poured over library books and blog posts comparing eco-conscious options. I committed myself to improving my capsule wardrobes and added the challenge of vlogging my seasonal collections. This helped remind me (and exemplify to others) just how far a small closet can stretch. When I found myself sighing over dresses and shoes in shop windows, I made notes of their brand, style, and silhouette -- handy keywords for the next time I found myself on Ebay. The fast fashion shops I'd sworn off became research fields; places for me to sample new trends without the pressure of making a purchase. With this information, I could make better-informed investments at my secondhand locales.

A few months in, I was excited to find that my clothes were holding up remarkably well. Even more exciting, between working part time and taking my number-one distraction off the table, I had a truckload of free hours on my hands. The time I might have spent shopping was instead passed at the library and pouring over my borrowed treasures. I learned how to properly launder clothes. I identified my style icons. I educated myself on the history of American clothing production and the emergence of fast fashion. I defined my chosen values under the umbrella of ethical fashion. Over the course of the year, I read the following:*

• Women in Clothes (Heidi Julavits, Leanne Shapton, and Sheila Heti)
• The Style Mentors (Elyssa Dimant)
• The Wow Factor (Jacqui Stafford)
• How to Get Dressed (Alison Freer) 
• The Truth About Style (Stacy London)
• The Imperfect Environmentalist (Sarah Gilbert)
• The Lost Art of Dress (Linda Pryzbyszewski)
• You Are What You Wear (Jennifer J. Baumgartner)
• Wear No Evil (Greta Eagan)   - review here
  
• How To Have Style (Isaac Mizrahi)
• Brooklyn Street Style (Anya Sacharow)
• The Joy of Less (Francine Jay)
• The Cool Factor (Andrea Linett)
• The Curated Closet (Anuschka Rees)  
• How to be Parisian Wherever You Are (Anne Berest, Audrey Diwan, Sophie Mas, and Caroline De Maigret)

Maybe educating yourself on personal style isn't the most academically impressive pursuit, but I'm pretty proud of that list. Especially when I consider it kept the fashion-obsessed part of me happy without spending money and polluting the environment.

OBSTACLES 

Of course along with these triumphs came struggles. Below are some of the issues I ran into on my journey, and the ways I dealt with each.

Problem: The Desire to, well, SHOP!

This was, naturally, the trickiest habit to shake. You may be a practical planner or live carefully inside your budget like me, but chances are if you suddenly impose limits on your regular outlets, you'll immediately start craving what you can't have.

Defense: Knowledge of Your Personal Style

Because NYC thrift stores and consignment shops are abundant and fabulous, this wasn't as difficult as it could have been. That said, secondhand shopping is a whole different beast than buying new -- the most obvious difference existing in these three little words: All Sales Final.

It takes adequate knowledge of your personal style -- or real fake-it-til-you-make-it alacrity -- to make secondhand decisions you won't regret. Real talk? I possessed neither of these before beginning this experiment. It took a lot of trial-and-error, plenty of personal examination, and a whole lot of reading (as evidenced above) to develop.

Worth mentioning is the prerequisite openness to exploring this in the first place. If you're the kind of person who opens their closet and is happy with the choice of a black t-shirt and jeans everyday, rock on with your bad self (and do so sustainably, please!) If you make this same selection and secretly sob into your cup of morning coffee, check out one of the books mentioned above (The Style Mentors, You Are What You Wear, and The Curated Closet would be particularly helpful) and invite your inner badass on your next shopping expedition.

For more tips on smart shopping and discovering your personal style, check out these posts:
   Smart Shopping
   7 Savvy Tips for the On-Trend Shopper
   How Purchase-Tracking Can Help Define Your Style and Save You Money

Problem: Boredom

Let's face it: everyone gets bored with their current closet from time to time. I may put on my best smug-bitch face in my capsule videos, but even the most beloved dress can become monotonous after you've worn it five times in one month.

Solution: Experimentation

Accessories offer a quick fix here. These are typically cheap and therefore a low-risk option at secondhand shops. I couldn't believe how the addition of a new-to-me fedora livened up my wardrobe last fall. Hats especially have a strange power to make me feel like a whole 'nother person.

Interestingly, hanging my clothing by color lead me to notice combinations I might previously have overlooked -- especially print pairings.

A more involved and decidedly nerdier trick I developed was creating "cheat sheets" for my capsule wardrobes. Essentially I built an Excel flow-chart; starting with shoes and branching out horizontally with corresponding bottom, top, and outerwear options, then worked my way through the possible results throughout season. Ideally, your wardrobe is fully mixable and you can skip this sort of overthinking by pulling things at random out of your closet and putting them on. The important thing here is to challenge yourself to avoid pairing the same thing over and over. Unless you like that, in which case, again, ROWYBS.

Many bloggers have sworn by the 10x10 challenge. I personally found this project best lends itself to normcore, neutral-palette wardrobes, which aren't really my style. But it's a great place to start!

For more style fun, check out these wardrobe experiments:
   Use Inspiration Photos to Create the Perfect Wardrobe
   Build a Capsule Wardrobe
   Cull Your Closet

Problem: Damage & Disrepair

As mentioned above, this wasn't a huge issue for me. Perhaps that was largely thanks to starting off with a few high-quality garments; merino blend sweaters, leather boots, a steadfast silk dress, and trusty topcoat, for instance. Still, that didn't mean I was exempt from the occasional oil smudge, pitstain, or straight-up bad investment (Ralph Lauren cashmere-blend gloves, I'm looking at you...)

Solution: Mend, Hire, and Make Good Choices

In terms of sustainability, replacement should be a last resort. Ideally, you'll find a way to fix or reuse damaged garments and avoid mindless substitution. After all, the most environmentally-friendly option when it comes to your closet is always wearing what you already own.

Over the course of the year I paid several visits to my sewing box, mending moth holes, busted toes, loose hems, lost buttons, and torn seams. I called on the cobbler to resole my favorite boots (for the third time in their long life), and will soon make another trip to doctor three other pairs. I have yet to find a tailor here in the city, but that's on my list of to-dos this season!

Of course, none of this would have been feasible had I not made quality choices in the first place. Whenever possible, strive to choose items that will be worthy of repair when they finally give out. One of my proudest thrift store investments this year was a pair of gently worn Frye knee boots. These shoes have been known to last a lifetime, and I've been coveting their classic styles for years now. The price point wasn't what I'd spend on just any shoe, but it's been well-worth it. For my work wardrobe, I purchased a like-new Equipment silk blouse, which I launder by hand with Castile soap every second wear. My Rag & Bone wool toggle coat didn't come cheap, even at consignment value, and I'll probably need to dry clean it before storing it this spring. In short, choosing quality over seasonal doesn't always mean cheap and easy, but in the long run, it's likely to save you a lot of time and mental energy. (Who enjoys the agony that comes with replacing a favorite bra or discontinued jeans? NO ONE, THAT'S WHO.)

For more info on fashion ethics and eco-fashion experts, check out this post:
   My Style Journey: Sustainability

CONCLUSION

Hopefully I've shed some light on this process and encouraged some of you to try it for yourself! It was interesting to finally conclude my experiment last November, what with Christmas right around the corner. Admittedly, I did accept new gifts and make a few purchases for some badly-in-need-of-replacement items, such as my work shoes and winter gloves (dammit, Ralph Lauren.) As much as possible, however, I've tried to carry on these practices. Buying secondhand is still my go-to option when I need or want new clothes -- and I do find myself "wanting" less now. I inspect care labels and steer clear of items that contain synthetics (EXCEPT bras, for which I have yet to find an adequate sustainable replacement.) I'm gravitating more toward transparent brands, quality products, and ethical production values.

Whatever sustainable decisions you make, remember: the choice is yours, and the time is now. There's no "more right" way to do this thing; everyone needs to decide what's suitable and productive for their lifestyle. You'll learn unique truths on your own journey, I'm sure. And when you do, I hope you'll return to share them below!

*It's also worth mentioning the book that started me rethinking my shopping habits in the first place, which I read a year prior to starting this project: Elizabeth L. Cline's Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion.

How To Build A Work-Friendly Capsule Wardrobe

One of the most common questions surrounding capsule wardrobes is how to construct one that accommodates both your worklife and your everyday / "off" life. Many of us deal with dress codes, uniforms, or other presentational guidelines at work -- and sometimes our personal style just doesn't suit our chosen career path! Whether you work in construction or corporate law, however, there are many ways to design a work-friendly capsule wardrobe without sacrificing your personal style.

In my four years since college, I've held five separate jobs alongside my chosen acting career (which, costumes aside, requires its own wardrobe suited to the constant movement and on-your-feet nature of rehearsals.) These five day jobs each called for a markedly different style of dress than what I was used to wearing around campus.

When I worked in real estate, I needed office-appropriate clothes that would also permit movement through apartment tours and meetings with contractors in sawdust-covered renovation sites. My telecommuting jobs -- writing, website management, and bookkeeping -- allowed me to work from home. Still, I've never been the type of person who can do their best while wearing pajamas, and occasional in-person conferences with my employers required presentable daywear regardless. At present, nannying requires a similar wardrobe.

Up until a few weeks ago, I had my capsule system down to a T. One set of clothes included my weekend and audition wear. A second, much smaller collection functioned as my nanny wardrobe. Since adopting a second job as a restaurant hostess, however, I've had to readjust my style -- essentially making room for the kind of chic items that always peppered my New York dreams, but which ultimately proved impractical alongside aggressive and all-too-affectionate jam hands.

I wondered: How could I stylishly reconcile these three very-different arenas of my life?

Enter the three-part capsule wardrobe.

The idea is not radical, if you understand capsule basics: Rather than building one all-encompassing wardrobe with lots of mix-and-match options, I chose to separate my clothes into three activity-based categories and build from there:

1 - weekend activities (friend dates, errands, city-wandering, shopping)
2 - nanny & personal assistant work
3 - auditions & restaurant work

To estimate roughly how many items I would need, I applied the kind of "laundry bottleneck" analysis described by Into-Mind (link.)

Completing these tandem processes quickly revealed existing "holes" in my closet. For one thing, I had too many shoes, only one of which proved properly suited to my new job. Most of my cold-weather gear was worn-out from last season, and I somehow had more lightweight outerwear than I knew what to do with. After dragging everything onto my bed, sorting by color, mixing and matching, and going through a few rounds of "how many oversized sweaters do I need, really?" I finally settled on something that resembled three funtional wardrobes, with a list of just five or so missing elements to thrift.

It's been a couple weeks since finalizing my three capsules, and I couldn't be happier with how they've turned out. I can't wait to get dressed on my days off (a delight which ensures this lazy housecat ventures beyond her living room on Saturday afternoons...) and my work clothes are now simple and streamlined, leaving more time for focused hair styling and second breakfasting.

For those of you interested, I've created a step-by-step breakdown of the process, below. I'd love to hear how it goes for you if and when you try it!

Part One: Plan

1) Before opening your closet, take some time with a blank sheet of paper to calculate your personal laundry cycle's worth of outfits. For me, that meant about 10 outfits per week. Divide said outfits into activities. For example:

10 TOTAL outfits = 3 nanny days + 4 hostess days + 3 off days

2) Next, consider what each of these outfits might look like. What kind of clothes do you tend to wear to these activities? If you're stumped, sort through blogs, magazines, or Pinterest for inspiration. Or take a look at what your boss and coworkers are wearing. Again, here's an example from my own notes:

3 nanny outfits:
-wrap dress + boots + parka
-light-knit sweater + flare jeans + sneakers
-t-shirt + skinny jeans+ ankle boots + cardigan

4 hostess outfits:
-blazer + silk blouse + cropped trousers
-a-line dress + heeled booties + overcoat
-silk blouse + black jeans + ankle boots
-button-down + pencil skirt + work heels

3 off-day outfits:
-silk blouse + chunky sweater + skinny jeans + oxfords
-collared blouse + sweater + pencil skirt + heels + wool coat
-knit dress + knee boots + moto jacket

You now have a bare-bones idea of what you need on-hand for one laundry cycle of outfits. If your preferences lean in the minimalist direction, this might be a perfect amount clothes for you. For the sake of variety and/or laundry emergencies, though, most of us prefer to have a few more options. To err on the safe side, you might multiply your results by 2 -- or simply add a few extra days to your laundry cycle before plotting your outfits.

3) Now make a list of your items, as such:

Nanny
1 dress 
1 sweater
1 t-shirt
2 jeans
1 parka
1 jacket
1 cardigan
1 sneaker
2 boots
...
(etc.)

Remember to consider which items make multiple appearances on your list, as well as the ones you might wear more than once. For instance, I might don a parka for two chilly days of nannying, but that doesn't mean I need two separate parkas!

Part Two: Compile

1) Here comes the hands-on part. Pull everything out of your closet and onto your bed. If you store clothes seasonally, pull out any in-season garments as well. Be sure to check your laundry -- you want to consider everything.

2) Sort your garments into piles by type (sweaters, pants, skirts, dresses, etc.) It's helpful to group each category by color as well, in order to locate duplicates or preexisting palettes.

3) Using the list you generated in Part One as a guide, begin building your capsule piece by piece. Remember to remain flexible! You may find that the cardigans and skirts you have on hand are in discordant colors, but an available dress fills the same niche. Of course, you can always draft a shopping list to fill in any missing pieces, but try to consider what you already own first.

4) Once you've fulfilled most of your listed items, look over any remainders on the bed. (You may have none, and that's great!) Ask yourself if you'd be comfortable parting with these leftovers. Maybe an item belongs in another season and should be moved into storage. Maybe another no longer suits your style and can be passed on to a friend or donated. Beware clinging to sentimental items; depending on your lifestyle and living situation, some of these may be appropriate to place in (deep) storage, but avoid turning your home into a museum of nostalgia. It's probably best not to let our memories chain themselves to belongings.

Feel free to share your experience and questions below! I'm thrilled to be of any assistance on your journey. :)

Happy capsuling!

Fall 2016 Inspirsession (+ How To Use Inspiration Photos To Construct The Perfect Capsule Wardrobe!)

I don't think a year has passed without me longing for fall before summer's even hit its peak. Despite the fact I seem to run ten degrees colder than the average human being, I'm a cool-weather gal through and through. I'll take extra layers any day over sweaty shorts and shifty tank straps.

From school supplies to fashion week to crunchy leaves to Halloween to Thanksgiving to Christmas, the season only proves to outdo itself with each passing week; I simply can't see what's not to love here. In fact, if we could just cut March through August out of the calendar entirely, I think I'd be perfectly happy. Two Christmases a year sounds like a great deal!

But I'm getting ahead of myself. Today New York is still gracing us with temperatures in the 90s, and I'm only in the early planning stages of my fall capsule wardrobe.

Like most Type A individuals, I spend roughly 90 percent of my energy thinking about how I'm going to do something, leaving just 10 percent for the actual doing it. As it turns out, though, my style has really solidified in the past few capsule cycles, so my inspiration-gathering process was fairly straightforward this time around.

If you're building a capsule of your own, I'd encourage spending a day or two collecting inspiration images (from Pinterest, blogs, books, magazines, etc.) These don't necessarily have to be fashion-related -- they can be as abstract as you like -- just be sure you can identify what about them sparks your interest. However, if you do compile mostly outfit photos, as I have done below, the capsule-building process is made that much simpler.

For instance, here's a little cheat I used this time around:

1) Make a list of the individual pieces that you like from each outfit photo. Be specific about fabric, shape, color, etc. (i.e. denim jacket, straight skirt, black boots.) If an item shows up in more than one photo, take note: it could be an ideal foundation piece. Consider making room for duplicates of these items.

2) Refine your list. Pending on how large you want your wardrobe to be, you may also need to consolidate similar items. (For example, if both "denim jacket" and "moto jacket" turned up on your list, you could combine these into one "lightweight jacket.") This is also a good time to consider color palette and silhouette. You don't want an unmixable wardrobe of clashing tones or mismatched proportions!

2) Cross-reference the completed list against your current closet stock, including anything you may have stored from last season. Check off any listed items that you already own. You may need to try them on to ensure good condition and fit. Collect any seasonal misfits to donate, sell, or repurpose.

3) Review what's missing. These are the items you should focus on purchasing to complete your capsule. Go forth and shop!


Now here's a peek at what's inspiring me for fall:
 

This Mod Look:

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Thanks to a recent viewing of God Help The Girl, I've been absolutely mooning over this oft-revived 60s look. I just can't wait to pair last year's long-sleeve floral dress with opaque tights and oxfords!

1970s Silhouettes

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It's rare for me to chase two different decades at once, but I just can't resist these faaaar-ouuuut 70s looks! (I may have Everybody Wants Some to thank for that...) While it's the outfit components of the 60s that intrigue me (knee-high boots, tights, mini dresses), it's really the proportions of the 70s that I love. Volume at the neck and shoulders, an itty bitty waist, and a gradual a-line pull downward -- sometimes all the way to the floor. Loving. It. 

Classic Basics

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While I love a quirky thrift store find, no wardrobe is complete without foundational basics -- and for whatever reason, mine tend to fall on the classic/preppy side of things: straight skirts, pumps, tailored coats, and v-neck sweaters. Autumn plays a siren song to my inner nerd!
 

Creative Top Coat Stylings

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I've long referred to this coat style as a trench, but it just now occurred to me that trench coats are typically double-breasted with a belted waist. So I guess my beloved "trench coat" is actually considered a "top coat" with military accents. Anyway, I'm loving this year's new looks for my old standby.

Skinny Bottom + Bulky Top

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For someone who once felt certain this trend would never stick around, I've become quite the skinny jean devotee. And though I'm wary of adding bulk to my abbreviated upper half, I can't help but love these stripey, city-ready looks.

Extras: Wide-Brimmed Hats, Well-Made Bags, and Wavy Locks

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Personally, I don't include accessories in my capsule count, but that doesn't mean I don't consider them in the planning process! After all, the devil's in the details.

My obsession with wide-brimmed hats is going three years strong at this point, and I'm happy to see the trend is sticking for the time being. (Sidenote: How cute is that lamb?! I would just carry that thing everywhere...) I'm currently on the hunt for a structured, quality handbag that won't break the bank -- any suggestions? And finally, I purchased a curling wand off ebay this summer, and boy has it been a game-changer! Can't wait to experiment more once a) our apartment settles back to a reasonable temperature and b) my hair stops sticking to my neck.
What's inspiring you this fall?

A Word on Capsule Wardrobes

If you've so much as peeked at a fashion blog lately, chances are likely you've run across the term capsule wardrobe. The popularity of this minimally-minded, carefully-tended collection continues to snowball, particularly with eco-conscious fashion gaining more momentum.

As detailed in my Style Journey series, I've been on-the-verge obsessed with wardrobe structure and personal style for a little over a decade now, and I've worked my way through almost two years' worth of capsules since my first examination of the subject. Only a few months ago did I really start to grasp what works best for my lifestyle, my budget, and my creative impulse. I preface with these points to affirm my commitment to a movement which, unfortunately, many are using as an excuse to shop more often.

Whether you're an OG capsuler or you've merely toyed with the concept, I wanted to offer some insight beyond the generic how-to guide; to dig deeper into the hows and whys of the capsuling process.

What a Capsule Wardrobe Should Do:

Simplify the daily dressing process --though not so much that it becomes boring!

Ideally, a capsule wardrobe is widely intermixable, with a style and color concept enabling this. This means that, in theory, you could go to your closet and pull two things at random with a good chance of them "going" together.

Showcase your personality in a lifestyle-appropriate way

The right capsule wardrobe will accurately reflect your "you-ness" while still adhering to the constraints of your lifestyle. This means if you love disco dresses but you work five days a week in a conservative library, you're going to have to make a few concessions. Still, your cardigans ought to have some shiny buttons or something.

Keep your budget in balance and your shopping in check

There's a strange conundrum in life: the less we have, the less we seem to crave. More logically, the less we crave, the less money we spend. This presupposes that the things we have include the things we actually need. Most of us don't need to a new outfit for every day of the year. That myth should have ended with Sex and the City.

What a Capsule Wardrobe Should Not Do:

 

Necessitate a mammoth purging of your pre-owned pieces.

Assuming you're capsuling for the purpose of simplifying, and assuming you give two shits about our planet Earth, whittling your current closet down to some fashionista's list of must-have items kind of undermines the greater principle. Better to wear out the jeans you already own than throw them out in favor of an on-trend style. Kind of like making an effort to actually eat the groceries you purchased before ordering take-out.

 

Confine you to a minimalist aesthetic.

Minimalism -- stylistically speaking, rather than lifestyle-wise -- is definitely having a moment right now. You don't need to go far in this city to find a pair of artistically-ripped black jeans, flanked by a white button-down and Adidas. Since most bloggers are interested in what is trendy (and also what photographs well) it makes sense that their own capsules reflect this aesthetic. That doesn't mean yours needs to as well. In fact, for purely selfish/snobbish reasons, I implore you to dig deeper than black and white and striped -- there are more animals in the kingdom than zebras, after all!

 

Foster mindless consumerism. 

Part of the logic behind establishing a set list or number of items is to avoid unnecessary, impulsive shopping trips. Few of us can make wise decisions on the fly, and if impulse shopping is your joi de vivre, chances are there's a darker impulse driving it. Capsuling should help you face these issues head on, rather than enabling them. Don't bend the rules for bad habits' sake!

Common Problems & FAQs

 

I already have a ton of clothes... how do I weed out the bad seeds?

The first time I created a capsule, I stored a bunch of stuff for "seasonal" consideration. The second time, I expanded the number of items in my collection so I could include everything. I justified these amendments as being necessary for my individual lifestyle. Truthfully, I just didn't want to get rid of anything. Whether it was sentiment, guilt, or fear of boredom, I was a prisoner in my own closet.

Here's how you Shawshank your way out:

1.  Choose someone you want to look like. (Pro tip: This is called a style icon.)
2.  Research their outfits, until you have a good handle on their essential style. (This is called a style concept.)
3.  Go through your closet, piece by piece, asking yourself if your chosen icon would wear this item or not. Give yourself some flexibility here; if your style icon is Prince and you're short one glitter-encrusted purple coat, trust that a well-tailored piece in black velvet would still fit the bill.
4.  Donate or sell what doesn't fit your style concept. Construct your wardrobe off the rest.

I don't have a "style concept," and I don't know where to get one.

Many people mistake having style for being trendy or wearing what's currently "in." While that can factor into it, being stylish is more about a confidence with who you are and how you choose to outwardly express that. If you believe yourself to be frumpy, dated, or above-it-all (and if you aren't interested in changing that), then by all means continue wearing what reflects those adjectives. If you'd like to communicate otherwise, however, but you're not sure where to begin, here are some gentle approaches:

• Was there a point in life when you felt most confident with your style? If so, try to pinpoint exactly what it was about the clothes from that period that you liked.
•  Buy some fashion magazines or blogs. Bookmark the pages that speak to you, without questioning their practicality in your own life.
•  Sit at a cafe and people-watch. When you see a look you like, make note of it. 

and finally a not-so-gentle approach, for the polar plungers among us:

•  Go to a thrift store. Set a small budget for yourself. Buy the first three items that speak to you, with no judgment or concern about how they'll jive with your closet. Take these pieces home and hang them where you can see them. Study them. Better yet, wear them out in the world. If the items match your personality, chances are you'll receive comments from others that give you hints as to why they're "just your style."

 

My work wardrobe is very different from what I wear otherwise.

Make two capsules! I'm surprised this hasn't been more widely discussed or exemplified in the blogging world... I suppose it's because most bloggers have the benefit of working out of their home, though. For the first time this season, I'm separating my work wardrobe from my "play" clothes. It's a relief to know everything in the former section is boss-appropriate -- and also that my favorite silk dress will never be tempted into the reach of jam hands. (I nanny.)

 

I have more than (10, 20, 37...) items.

While setting limits for yourself can be very helpful, proscribing to someone else's standard likely won't get you anywhere. A better approach is starting with the maximum items you think you'll need (maybe two laundry period's worth) and reducing from there.

 

What if I get bored with the clothes I choose?

This is something I was particularly worried about as I started my first capsule, but which decreased as my personal style solidified. At first, having fewer clothes to choose from seemed limiting, but eventually I started to value quality over quantity. I didn't mind wearing my absolute favorite dress to every date night, simply because it was my absolute favorite! If the purpose of a date is to look smashing, having three almost-right dresses won't do you much good. Eventually, the dress will wear and you can find something new. Enjoy it fully now, though. :)

A final note, regarding author bias:
I'm Type A to a t, and I enjoy creating lists, charts, and spreadsheets -- taking wardrobe inventory, creating outfits, and all that. If allowed, I could probably spend days doing exclusively this. As such, I feel like some of this advice might be biased toward people of a similar disposition.
That aside, I'm confident that by playing within your own guidelines -- yet keeping the simple aim of the capsule process close to heart -- you can find an approach that works for you.

Happy Capsuling!

My First YouTube Video

Well, folks, I've gone and done it. I filmed myself and put it on YouTube. I've officially expanded into the realm of vlog. This is something I've been hoping to explore for a while now, but out of fear, embarrassment, and/or lethargy, it took me this long to actually get there. (In fact, in the past year or so, I've filmed a couple videos which I even edited with the intention of sharing, only to chicken out when push came to shove.)

At the very least, I'm hoping that working in this medium will offer not only a different perspective into my wardrobe projects, but also that it will improve my on-camera facial and vocal awareness -- an important skill for any actor with silver-screen dreams!

Taking a monthly, seasonal, or yearly wardrobe inventory is so important for anyone looking to improve their style or closet organization. Unless you've mastered minimalism or possess a photographic memory, it's just too easy to lose touch of what's in your closet. Besides, you never know when your tastes are going to change. (Or maybe you do. And if so, good for you.)

I don't suppose many people approach the inventory process with as much delight as I do (in case you haven't heard, I'm an organizational nerd who would typically rather root around in untidy drawers and piles of books than greet the afternoon sunshine or, you know, talk to other human beings...) but there's no need to make a big thing of it. Just pull everything out of your closet and onto your bed, then take it, as Ann Lamont advises, "bird by bird" (or, uh, shirt by shirt.) You can make spreadsheets and flashcards as I've been rumored to (Who's spreading such lies? Pas moi, certainement!) or you can just work on instinct -- tossing anything too old or seasonally inappropriate, keeping what interests you, and shopping with a budget, timeline, or list for guidance. Easy-peasy.

As of today, this video is already a little outdated. Since March, which I filmed it, I've culled several other pieces and made a few more purchases (basics only, of course!) for my upcoming Spring/Summer capsule. As promised, I will share the completed capsule in another video, providing I don't lose my nerve.

x's and o's and outfits to come! Happy Wednesday, everyone.

MY STYLE JOURNEY (II): Smart Shopping

Shopping.

The mundane act that nevertheless shapes us.

You may remember the childhood trauma of going on errands with your mom -- which of course seemed endless and never involved enough cafe rice-krispy treats or toy store detours. Or perhaps you recall the preteen significance of receiving an invitation (via landline, naturally) to to "hang at the mall" with fifth's grade's top queen bees. Or the sacred bonding, however materialistic, that blossomed between you and your mother when she unexpectedly agreed to buy you that Paul Frank tee (which you knew was vastly overpriced, but which you also knew would surpass even the Bearers of Gum on the junior high great chain of being.) Trying on hideous prom dresses with your friends at the Macy's clearance center in the years before selfies; learning what it meant to be a woman in the hands of a troublesome society; nitpicking the oddest parameters of your body in mournful imitation before your confidants' reflections. Discovering yourself in the process of combing through discarded fashions at Value Village, realizing you're the type of soul who takes comfort in the anomalous, who even finds beauty in it.

Whether the mall is your church or your throat gets itchy just thinking about it, we've certainly all had to shop for ourselves at one time or another. (And if you haven't and your age includes two digits, it might be time to reexamine your relationship with your parents.) Chances are, whether you're a man or woman and whether you like shopping or not, we've experienced some amount of universal clothes-buying experiences. Pondering from the safety of a fitting room cubicle whether we can "pull off" a new trend. Feeling like the seams of a garment weren't sewn with our bodies' best interests in mind. Inducing a headache from weighing prices against budgets against wants against worries.

Long story short, shopping can be a total pain in the ass.

While there are certainly marathon, curatorial, and psychotheraputic shoppers out there, the majority of us would like to spend less time thinking about what to wear and where to buy it. We mostly want to look the best we can for the least amount of money and have a merry old time making it happen. (This and this, amiright?)

Personally I've always enjoyed the shopping process, and, largely thanks to my mom, I've always been a fairly mindful buyer. I never had to deal with shopping addiction, credit card debt, or designer fever.* Regardless, I still fell victim to the occasional impulse buy and all too often I'd stand before an overstuffed closet with the age-old quandary of having "nothing" to wear.

My parents provided almost all of my clothing through high school, and I waltzed through college in a combined wardrobe of Christmas-gifted items from them and secondhand clothes I purchased myself. This is when I truly learned to budget, setting aside 10% of my campus job income to cover my purchases. When I graduated and started working full time, I immediately fell victim to that seductive temptress Fast Fashion. (More on her later.) With time on my hands and money in my pocket, I was more inclined to buy new than to thrift, and I'm pretty sure my wardrobe suffered from it. Fast fashion garments (that is, quickly-manufactured on-trend styles often made with cheap materials and cheaper labor) rarely hold up for more than a season, let alone a year. As sweaters pilled and dresses lost their shape, my closet was constantly in need of replenishment. I found myself needing to shop more and more and enjoying it less and less. It was exhausting, it was wasteful, and it may sound all too familiar.

In line with my new interest in minimalism and my decision to embrace a more sustainable lifestyle (a topic I will address in my next post), I decided to stop purchasing new clothing. While I have not eliminated secondhand shopping, I have made far fewer purchases even in that arena than I normally would. With the exception of Christmas gifts my wardrobe has not seen a truly "new" addition since I made the move to New York -- and if you've ever stepped foot in SoHo or taken a stroll down 5th Avenue, you know it's not for lack of opportunity!

As it turns out, New York is also the perfect place to become a dedicated thrifter. Between the plentiful Housing Works, eclectic Beacon's Closets, and hidden gems like the East Village's Cure, I've been want for nothing here. Besides, there's a city's worth of fashionistas (and -os!) to keep refilling my stock.

In places where exclusively thrifting might prove more challenge, here are some other approaches to try:

1) Limit yourself to a budget or number of items, then make a clear GAME PLAN. Yeah, yeah, you're spontaneous. Having a roadmap cramps your style... But if your end goal is a cohesive, uniquely-you wardrobe, this is an essential part of the deal. Sit down and get real with yourself about what will support your current wardrobe. Not what Zooey Dechanel was wearing on the last episode of New Girl (unless that happens to fit your style, of course) -- not what you want, but what you need. Take time with this, and let it marinate awhile. When you're getting dressed in the morning and you realize you could really use a fill-in-the-blank to achieve the look you want, make note of it. Once your list is complete, copy it into the Notes section of your phone or onto an index card in your wallet. Reference it before you leave to go shopping, while you're in the store, and while you're in the dressing room. Reference it to the sales people who have commission lasers beaming out their eyes. Whatever you do, don't stray from that list.

EDIT: As your wardrobe takes shape and your sense of style becomes more clear, then by all means relax these guidelines a bit, and don't worry so much about following "the plan." Until then, however, I'd advise learning the rules before you break them.

2) Just don't shop for a while. Arguably the most challenging, you can always just quit shopping cold turkey. For a time. Try a year, six months, or a three-month season. Maybe keep a journal of what items you find yourself wanting, and how you feel throughout the process. The times I've taken shopping hiatuses have always been something of a stress-relief for me. Just one less thing to think about!

3) Wait a week. This is a tough one for sale shoppers and thrifters, as there's always the issue of scarcity at hand. Still, if you struggle with impulse splurges or buyer's remorse, this is a great remedy. When you see something you think you'd like to buy, but you're not really sure you need, leave it there and do your best to forget about it. If you're still thinking about it in a week or two, give yourself the green light.

4) Try a Wardrobe Challenge. In addition to the links I posted in Part 1 of this series, the following challenges are particularly structured to limit superfluous shopping:

• The 5-Piece "French" Wardrobe** (Mademoiselle) - A variety of bloggers have covered this latest wardrobe-building trend, but this stylish Aussie charmed my heart with her adorable capsule wardrobe videos!

• Project 333 - I haven't tried this challenge myself, but it seems straight-forward enough! Another one you can find various versions of in several bloggers' archives.

• 30-Day Winter Wardrobe Challenge (Who What Wear) - While I wouldn't advocate trying to recreate all of these (doing so would only serve to further enable unnecessary spending), these monthly challenges offer great suggestions for building of-the-minute looks from pieces you probably already own.

You may be wondering why any of this matters. You may love shopping, have the funds for it, and wonder why you'd want to limit this pastime at all. There are a number of benefits I see in evaluating our consumption habits -- learning to value experiences over "things," taking stock of our privilege, understanding our own psychological habits, encouraging civil rights, appreciating craftsmanship and function over novelty, challenging double standards of the fast fashion industry... But the most important reason lies beyond these concepts. The fact is, the shopping-obsessed, capitalist-driven, mondo-consumerist lifestyle embodied in much of our world today is simply not sustainable for the planet we call home.

Kind of brings a new weight to "Shop til you drop," doesn't it?

Other Useful Shopping Resources:

• Quality, Fit, and Value of Popular Brands (Paris To Go) - Another chart from this fabulous minimalist. This really came in hand during my last thrift store visit!

• How I Find Great Vintage and Thrift Store Finds (Minimalist Beauty) - Some useful tips for those new to thrifting.

• Changing Your Spending Habits (Light By Coco) - Some reiteration, but a few extra nuggets of wisdom here.

*If you do struggle with any of these, and/or if the concept of budgeting is mind-boggling to you, I encourage you to check out this series for tips on how to deal!

**One mystery I have yet to solve about this challenge: Once the season is over and you're left with these 5 key items, where do they go? Do you store them for next year? Do you sell them before they're out of style? Do you integrate them into your basics and donate 5 old things? Or is your closet just supposed to expand by 5 pieces each season until you cull again? If anyone wants to hazard a guess, PLEASE SHARE IT BELOW, because I'm desperately curious!!

How Purchase-Tracking Can Help Define Your Style and Save You Money

I'm a firm believer in the importance of budgeting and setting savings goals, and (not to brag) I've gotten pretty good at it. Whenever friends asks what my "secret" is, I give it to them straight.  First: Privilege. I would be remiss not to acknowledge how my family assistance -- particularly my parentally-funded college education -- and my being a socially-competent, symmetrically-faced, white woman has figured into an ability to support myself and live quite comfortably. Second, however, is without a doubt being mindful about how I choose to spend my money.

For a little over three years now, I have been using Mint to track my budgeting and spending habits. From taxes to travel planning, it has proved to be an indispensable tool. 

While bringing awareness to your cashflow may be anxiety-inducing at first, it can ultimately help you feel more at ease and in control of your life. In tandem with Mint, I like to take a yearly inventory of my purchases and, considering them one by one, ask myself two questions: What would I buy again, and what do I regret spending money on? You can apply these questions to anything you like (books, housewares, sportswear, etc.), but for the purposes of this blog, I'm using clothing as an example -- because this process serves double duty to help you shape and define your personal style!

This is where a program like Mint comes in handy. If you are diligent about categorizing your purchases throughout the year, then all you'll need to do is filter by label. For example, according to Mint, here is everything I purchased in 2015 under the "Clothing" label:

Transaction	Item(s)
$62.40	(6) underwear (1) bra
$54.99	(1) ankle boots
$67.50	(1) skinny jeans
$33.34	(2) sweaters
$8.35	(2) tights
$8.00	(1) beaded headband
$76.29	(1) oxford flats, (1) tights
$42.63	(2) sweaters, (1) long-sleeve shirt
$16.29	(1) skinny trousers
$5.45	(1) underwear
$50.00	(1) resole old boots
$4.97	(1) nylons
$3.99	(1) pencil skirt
$434.20	(24) total pieces

Once I've compiled my purchase list*, I make notes as to how I'm currently feeling about each item.  This might include what I like about it, its quality state, what feelings or memories it conjures, or why I chose to buy it in the first place. For example, next to my $3.99 Goodwill pencil skirt I wrote: "Would purchase again; quality construction, neutral color, great price, something I considered for a long time." But beside the $8.35 Forever 21 tights: "REGRET; bad quality, ill-fitting and non-returnable, always uncomfortable, cheap price was not worth the risk."

After I've assessed each item like this, I review my notes and look for patterns. This year, for instance, I noticed an increased willingness to invest in durable, quality items, while my appetite for fast fashion fixes was quickly fading. Warm pieces in natural fabrics were long-term favorites, yet I regularly overlooked fit & style flaws in a seductively soft fabric (which of course disappeared after two washes.) Items purchased with enabler friends ("That's such a DEAL! You have to buy it!") were almost always a mistake. I love my loose, relaxed-fit tops. I always end up hating crew necks. It's amazing what weird preferences you discover when you take the time to consider your purchases!

You can probably guess the next step; apply your discoveries to this year's spending. If you notice that many of the pieces you quickly got bored with are brightly-colored, stick to neutrals this year. If you love what you bought in the company of your best friend, make a point to include them in your future shopping trips. Make a list and keep it in your purse or wallet, so you can reference it when you're tempted to make a new purchase. Ask yourself if it fits your style and your budget. You may feel like a bit of a nerd at first. (Yes, even I did!) But as Zora Neale Hurston puts it, "Research is formalized curiosity." Keep researching. Stay curious. It can only lead to fun.

*Note that this table does not include pieces I acquired for free (i.e. clothes swaps or gifts.) For personal style analysis, these items should be taken into consideration as well.

Finding Gratitude in Grieving

Just as I get my thoughts sorted on one celebrity death, what should happen but we lose another one of Britain's greats. Alan Rickman -- or the definitive Professor Snape, as he will always be to me -- left us at the same age and for the same reason as David Bowie. For a moment this morning I hoped it was a hoax, but I knew better when sources like BBC and The Times were offering their headlines.

It isn't a great start to 2016, to be sure. And yet, in the midst of all this heartbreak, I can't help but feel... gratitude. Grateful that personally I have lived to die another day. Grateful that I've been blessed with the privilege to lead a safe, healthy, worthwhile existence. Grateful that, if I manage to avoid rogue buses and dodge dread diseases, I just might have 2/3 or maybe 3/4 of my life left to explore.

It's important to log our gratitude whenever and however we can. The more dedicated among us might keep daily records in a gratitude journal. For those of us with less time on our hands, though, it's often easy to forget to count our blessings.

If you're anything like me, the last thing you hope to hear when you're having a crappy day is "Look on the bright side." Complaining, fretting, and objecting feel so much easier. But when it comes right down to it, these actions zap our energy. They may even push the perspective of those around us into bleaker corners.

Here are some methods I've found helpful in encouraging gratitude flow:

1) Surround yourself with positive people. This is something I've truly just come to understand in the last year, and it was only through meeting more positive people that I was able to identify the negative and/or toxic individuals in my life. Here are behaviors indicative of a positive person: They ask questions about your life, maintain good eye contact, honor others and celebrate their successes, and remain respectful regardless of their mood. And here are those indicative of a negative person: They talk exclusively about themselves, constantly appear bored or distracted, talk about others behind their back, and use their moods as an excuse to be an asshole. Not cute.

2) Engage your senses. This is going to sound kind of hippy-dippy, and that's probably because it lies at the root of most meditation practices. If you're able to engage in an active way with the world around you, though, happiness is constantly at your fingertips. Music bumping at the neighbors and driving you crazy? Give your cat a comfort pet and luxuriate in her soft fur. Feeling stressed and crunched for time? Pinpoint the overlooked fascinations of your morning commute -- like gargoyles and graffiti art. Trembling in the aftershock of a breakup? Redirect your passion toward painting or learning the guitar. With the right focus, these practices will awaken a curious joy.

3) Honor others. There are probably a handful of people in your life who are in constant deserving of a thank you card. Sit down and write them. If you don't have time, text them something genuine and appreciative. Remind them of an awesome thing they did. Ask if you can take them out to coffee. Tell them you love them. Tell them now. And when, in their cloud of confusion at randomly hearing from you on Thursday at 9pm (and with no apparent reason for such a declaration), they ask, "After all this time?" grant them with the only acceptable answer: "Always."